Can Sealing Compound
To make a hermetic seal, you must choose the right sealant. There isn’t one compound that works best for all types of packs, so it’s important to use the right one. Engineers on the sales team can help you pick the best sealant.
The sealing compound needs to be ready before it can be put on the end of the can. It also has technical bulletins with detailed instructions on how to make the compound. There are also audio-visual programs that give step-by-step instructions on how to make the compound.
The compound can now be put on the end of the can using standard lining tools. For many sanitary cans, the sealing compound is lined in an open-top sanitary placement, starting at 0-4/64 “(0.58 mm) from the inside cut edge to the beginning of the seaming panel radius (Figure 46). For many beer and beverage can ends, the sealing compound is lined in a flat top beer or soft drink can placement with a thickness of 0-4/64 inches “(0-1.58 mm) from the cut edge to the top of the curl on the can end shoulder.
The amount of compound to use depends on the diameter of the can end, the pack, the process, and the style of the can.
Representatives from the area can make specific suggestions about these parameters.
The compound can be put on with one or two turn linings. If the lining is well-made, it doesn’t matter if it has one turn or two.
If the one-turn lining isn’t made well and has skips, voids, or isn’t even, the two-turn lining is likely to have a more even application and, as a result, a better hermetic seal.
After the lining is done, quality checks are done to make sure that the right film weight is reached and that the compound is spread in the right way.
Freshly lined ends have to sit for 24 to 48 hours before they can be double-stitched onto can bodies.
The ends of water-based compounds are dried in an oven before they can be stored or used.
Changes to the Double Seamer A double seamer can be changed in many ways to make hermetic double seams that can be sold.
Many of these adjustments are beyond the scope of this manual and are usually explained in detail in the manuals that come with the double seamers.
In the pictures below, you can see three of the most common changes. These are the changes for the pressure on the base plate and the tightness of the first and second rolls. If one or more are out of place, it could cause a number of problems. The pictures below show what happens when the base plate pressure is tight, normal, or loose, and the first and second operation rolls are also tight, normal, or loose.
The first seaming operation was done on a Continental Can Company 415-CR1 seamer with A12000 seaming rolls, and the second seaming operation was done with A12001 seaming rolls. Double sliver-notch 303 x 406 (80.971113 mr) cans with 60 pound double cold-reduced plain tinplate bodies and 85 pound traditional tinplate C enameled ends were used.
These ends were lined with a commercial sanitary compound with a film volume of 56 cubic millimeters and a two-turn lining in sanitary open top placement.
Changes to the double seamer. A double seamer can be changed in many ways to make hermetic double seams that are good enough for commercial use.
Many of these changes are beyond the scope of this book and are usually explained in detail in the manuals that come with the double seamers. In the pictures below, you can see how three of the most common adjustments are made. These are adjustments for the pressure on the base plate and the tightness of the first and second rolls. If any of them are out of place, it could cause a number of problems. The pictures below show what happens when the base plate is tight, normal, or loose, and the first and second operation rolls are also tight, normal, or loose.
These seams were made with an A12000 and an A12001 first and second operation seaming roll on a Continental Can Company 415-CR1 seamer. 303 x 406 (80.971113 mr.) double silver-notch cans were used. The bodies were made of 60-pound double cold-reduced plain tinplate, and the ends were made of 85-pound conventional tinplate C enameled. A commercial sanitary compound with a film volume of 56 cubic millimeters was lined in these ends with a two-turn lining in a sanitary open-top placement.
Taking a closer look at the double seam The depth of the countersink is measured with a gauge that is calibrated in tenths and hundredths of an inch or in tenths and thousandths of a millimeter. Figure 30 shows one type of gauge. For the countersink measurement, the bar of the gauge is put on top of the double seam so that it crosses the diameter of the can end. The foot or point of the gauge, which is connected to the indicators, is placed on the end of the can at the base of the chuck wall and at the lowest point or deepest point next to the chuck wall. Figure 30 shows a countersink gauge with two dials. Each dial has an indicator: a small one on a small inner scale from 0 to 7 that shows tenths of an inch, and a larger one on a large outer scale from 0 to 99 that shows hundredths,.01, and thousandths,.001, of an inch.
At least three readings should be taken at evenly spaced points around the seam. The range for the countersink is made up of the minimum and maximum roadings. There shouldn’t be any readings done within a half
When taking a rcading, the bar of the gauge shouldn’t rest on the high point of the side seam, which is about an inch from the seam. The countersink gauge should be adjusted from time to time. First, the foot or point should be checked to make sure it is tight in its shaft. Second, the indicator can’t be turned until the knurled screw near the top of the dial is loosened. The gauge’s bar is then put on a flat surface, preferably a block of steel that has been machined. The foot is in a zu ro position when the gauge is in this position. The outer scale is turned until the zero and the indicator line up with each other. Lastly, the knurled screw is tightened to lock the gauge at the zero position.
The countersink is a very important measurement, but it can only be as accurate as the gauge and the way it is used. seam A can micrometer is used to measure many seams, as shown in Figure 31. This micrometer can be used to measure in thousandths of an inch as well as hundredths and tenths of an inch. Some seam micrometers use the metric system to measure.
The can seam micrometer is a piece of testing equipment that will be useful and accurate if it is used and taken care of properly. The can seam micrometer has numbered lines on the barrel that go from 0 to 0.5 inches, or tenths of an inch. There are three.025 lines in between the lines with numbers “, .050″ and .075”. The micrometer’s thimble can be turned and has numbers from 0 to 24 written around it. Each mark means one thousandth of an inch, or.001 “. .025 is equal to one turn of the thimble “.
For measurements from 0 to.025, “The reading comes straight from the thimble: the number on the line of the thimble that is closest to the long line on the barrel. For measurements over.025 “The thimble’s reading is added to the barrel’s reading. If there were no numbers on the barrel and three lines past zero were visible, the reading would be.080 “Figure 33 shows that the answer is (.025 +.025 +.025 +.005). This micrometer doesn’t have a vernier. From 0 to 13 millimeters, or 0-13 mm, the barrel of a metric system can seam micrometer is divided into half millimeter steps, or 0.5 mm. Only the 0 mm, 0.5 mm, and 10 mm lines on the barrel are numbered. In between each of the numbered lines are nine other lines that increase by 0.5 mm. Around the thimble that can be turned, there are fifty numbers from 0 to 49. Each mark means one hundredth of a millimeter.
The thimble has a number on every fifth graduation. Every full turn of the thimble is the same as 0.5 mm.
For measurements between 0 and 0.5 mm on a metric micrometer, the reading comes directly from the thimble. The number on the line of the thimble that is closest to the long line on the barrel is the reading. When the reading on the thimble is more than 0.5 mm, it is added to the reading on the barrel. If three lines past zero on the barrel were visible (but no numbers on the barrel were visible) and the long line on the barrel lined up with the 41st graduation on the thimble, the reading would be 1.91 mm. (0.5 + 0.5 + 0.5 +.41), as shown in Figure 32. This micrometer doesn’t have a vernier. The anvil end of any seam micrometer will have a projecting, pointed shaft. This can be used to figure out the depth of the countersink. But the countersink gauge of Figure 30 that was already talked about is much easier to read and is more accurate.
Every so often, the micrometer should be checked to make sure it is set to zero. Use a piece of paper, not something rough, to clean the anvil and spindle.
The normal amount of pressure should be used to bring these two surfaces together. Then, while holding the frame in one hand, put the wrench that came with the micrometer into the hole in the barrol sleeve and turn the barrol sleeve until the parallel line meets the zero line on the thimble.
The can seam micrometer can be used to measure how thick the seam is. The micrometer is put on top of the double seam so that the seam is between it and the spindle screw. The can seam micrometer should be held by the index finger and balanced directly over the seam. The tip of the micrometer shouldn’t be where you hold it. If you do that, the anvil won’t be able to fit the taper of the chuck wall, and you’ll get an incorrectly high reading. Figure 34 shows how to turn the thimble in a clockwise direction until the double seam fits snugly between the anvil and the spindle screw. It should fit snugly, but not too tightly. The reading is then done the way it was said to be done on pages 24 and 25. At least three measurements should be taken around the double seam, and the seam thickness should be written down as a range from the thinnest to the thickest point.
Figure 35 shows how the can searn micrometer can also be used to measure the length of the seam. The end of the micrometer is resting on the body of the can, so the anvil is at the cover hook radius. The thimble is turned in a clockwise direction until the length of the double seam fits snugly between the anvil and the thimble screw.
The seam length is found by reading the lines on the micrometer barrel and the thimble. “Evaluating the Double Scam” says that the length of the scam on sanitary cans should be about.120″ (3.05 mm.).
The seam length is measured at least three times around the seam to the nearest thousandth of an inch or hundredth of a millimeter. It should be written down as a range, from the least to the most.
A piece cut from the double seam is used to measure the overlap. The best tool for the job is a power-driven saw with a thin, sharp blade and fine teeth. Figure 36 shows one of these saws. With this saw, you lay the can on its side and make two cuts that are parallel to each other.
One blade of this two-bladed saw went through each seam. On the diameter of the can, only one of these cuts is made, and this is the cut that is used to measure the overlap. Tin snips or nippers are used to cut the piece out of the can. With the single-blade saw in Figure 37, the can is laid on its side and the first cut is made on the diameter of the can. So that the piece can be taken off, a second cut is made at a 45-degree angle to the lirsl and through it.
(A saw blade that is often used is 4 inches in diameter,.014 inches thick, and has about 25 teeth per inch.) At the thickest part of the cross over, you should cut an extra piece through the seam. Heavy solder and dangerously small overlaps are easy to find in this section, making it one of the most important places to look and measure during the whole seam examination.
The piece can then be put in the seam projector’s small vise or held up to its light source.
One blade of this two-bladed saw went through each seam. On the diameter of the can, only one of these cuts is made, and this is the cut that is used to measure the overlap. Tin snips or nippers are used to cut the piece out of the can. With the single-blade saw in Figure 37, the can is laid on its side and the first cut is made on the diameter of the can. So that the piece can be taken off, a second cut is made at a 45-degree angle to the lirsl and through it.
(A saw blade that is often used is 4 inches in diameter,.014 inches thick, and has about 25 teeth per inch.) At the thickest part of the cross over, you should cut an extra piece through the seam. Heavy solder and dangerously small overlaps are easy to find in this section, making it one of the most important places to look and measure during the whole seam examination.
The can seam micrometer is then used to measure the cover hook at least three points around its circumference that are all the same distance apart. The cover hook is held between the anvil and the thimble screw, with the anvil at the cut edge of the cover hook and the thimble screw at the radius of the cover hook. As shown in Figure 44, the cover hook should be parallel to the main axis of the micrometer so that the measurement isn’t messed up. To the nearest.001, the cover hook is measured “It is given as a range from minimum to maximum, or 0.01 mm.
Before wrinkle and juncture ratings are made, the cover hook should be cleaned with a solvent-soaked brush or cloth to get rid of any dirt, grease, pack, or compound. The ways these ratings were made are talked about in “Evaluating the Double Seam, “pages 10-22. A thickness micrometer like the one in Figure 45 is used to measure the thickness of the end and body plates. This one has anvil and thimble screw tips that are sharp.
UBIS : Compound is a type of adhesive sealant for metal packaging. Its main job is to keep the can and its lid from leaking.
Compound should also stop any outside contamination, which would make the packed product last longer.
Benefits and Importance of Sealants:
• To prevent void space and leakage on metal packaging seams
• To stop contamination
• To keep the air pressure inside the package steady
• To keep the shelf life longer
To maาe a hermetic seal, you must choose the right sealant. There isn’t one compound that works best for all types of packs, so it’s important to use the right one. Engineers on the sales team can help you pick the best sealant.
The sealing compound needs to be ready before it can be put on the end of the can. It also has technical bulletins with detailed instructions on how to make the compound. There are also audio-visual programs that give step-by-step instructions on how to make the compound.
The compound can now be put on the end of the can using standard lining tools. For many sanitary cans, the sealing compound is lined in an open-top sanitary placement, starting at 0-4/64 “(0.58 mm) from the inside cut edge to the beginning of the seaming panel radius (Figure 46). For many beer and beverage can ends, the sealing compound is lined in a flat top beer or soft drink can placement with a thickness of 0-4/64 inches “(0-1.58 mm) from the cut edge to the top of the curl on the can end shoulder.
The amount of compound to use depends on the diameter of the can end, the pack, the process, and the style of the can.
Representatives from the area can make specific suggestions about these parameters.
The compound can be put on with one or two turn linings. If the lining is well-made, it doesn’t matter if it has one turn or two.
If the one-turn lining isn’t made well and has skips, voids, or isn’t even, the two-turn lining is likely to have a more even application and, as a result, a better hermetic seal.
After the lining is done, quality checks are done to make sure that the right film weight is reached and that the compound is spread in the right way.
Freshly lined ends have to sit for 24 to 48 hours before they can be double-stitched onto can bodies.
The ends of water-based compounds are dried in an oven before they can be stored or used.
Changes to the Double Seamer A double seamer can be changed in many ways to make hermetic double seams that can be sold.
Many of these adjustments are beyond the scope of this manual and are usually explained in detail in the manuals that come with the double seamers.
In the pictures below, you can see three of the most common changes. These are the changes for the pressure on the base plate and the tightness of the first and second rolls. If one or more are out of place, it could cause a number of problems. The pictures below show what happens when the base plate pressure is tight, normal, or loose, and the first and second operation rolls are also tight, normal, or loose.
The first seaming operation was done on a Continental Can Company 415-CR1 seamer with A12000 seaming rolls, and the second seaming operation was done with A12001 seaming rolls. Double sliver-notch 303 x 406 (80.971113 mr) cans with 60 pound double cold-reduced plain tinplate bodies and 85 pound traditional tinplate C enameled ends were used.
These ends were lined with a commercial sanitary compound with a film volume of 56 cubic millimeters and a two-turn lining in sanitary open top placement.
Changes to the double seamer. A double seamer can be changed in many ways to make hermetic double seams that are good enough for commercial use.
Many of these changes are beyond the scope of this book and are usually explained in detail in the manuals that come with the double seamers. In the pictures below, you can see how three of the most common adjustments are made. These are adjustments for the pressure on the base plate and the tightness of the first and second rolls. If any of them are out of place, it could cause a number of problems. The pictures below show what happens when the base plate is tight, normal, or loose, and the first and second operation rolls are also tight, normal, or loose.
These seams were made with an A12000 and an A12001 first and second operation seaming roll on a Continental Can Company 415-CR1 seamer. 303 x 406 (80.971113 mr.) double silver-notch cans were used. The bodies were made of 60-pound double cold-reduced plain tinplate, and the ends were made of 85-pound conventional tinplate C enameled. A commercial sanitary compound with a film volume of 56 cubic millimeters was lined in these ends with a two-turn lining in a sanitary open-top placement.
Taking a closer look at the double seam The depth of the countersink is measured with a gauge that is calibrated in tenths and hundredths of an inch or in tenths and thousandths of a millimeter. Figure 30 shows one type of gauge. For the countersink measurement, the bar of the gauge is put on top of the double seam so that it crosses the diameter of the can end. The foot or point of the gauge, which is connected to the indicators, is placed on the end of the can at the base of the chuck wall and at the lowest point or deepest point next to the chuck wall. Figure 30 shows a countersink gauge with two dials. Each dial has an indicator: a small one on a small inner scale from 0 to 7 that shows tenths of an inch, and a larger one on a large outer scale from 0 to 99 that shows hundredths,.01, and thousandths,.001, of an inch.
At least three readings should be taken at evenly spaced points around the seam. The range for the countersink is made up of the minimum and maximum roadings. There shouldn’t be any readings done within a half
When taking a rcading, the bar of the gauge shouldn’t rest on the high point of the side seam, which is about an inch from the seam. The countersink gauge should be adjusted from time to time. First, the foot or point should be checked to make sure it is tight in its shaft. Second, the indicator can’t be turned until the knurled screw near the top of the dial is loosened. The gauge’s bar is then put on a flat surface, preferably a block of steel that has been machined. The foot is in a zu ro position when the gauge is in this position. The outer scale is turned until the zero and the indicator line up with each other. Lastly, the knurled screw is tightened to lock the gauge at the zero position.
The countersink is a very important measurement, but it can only be as accurate as the gauge and the way it is used. seam A can micrometer is used to measure many seams, as shown in Figure 31. This micrometer can be used to measure in thousandths of an inch as well as hundredths and tenths of an inch. Some seam micrometers use the metric system to measure.
The can seam micrometer is a piece of testing equipment that will be useful and accurate if it is used and taken care of properly. The can seam micrometer has numbered lines on the barrel that go from 0 to 0.5 inches, or tenths of an inch. There are three.025 lines in between the lines with numbers “, .050″ and .075”. The micrometer’s thimble can be turned and has numbers from 0 to 24 written around it. Each mark means one thousandth of an inch, or.001 “. .025 is equal to one turn of the thimble “.
For measurements from 0 to.025, “The reading comes straight from the thimble: the number on the line of the thimble that is closest to the long line on the barrel. For measurements over.025 “The thimble’s reading is added to the barrel’s reading. If there were no numbers on the barrel and three lines past zero were visible, the reading would be.080 “Figure 33 shows that the answer is (.025 +.025 +.025 +.005). This micrometer doesn’t have a vernier. From 0 to 13 millimeters, or 0-13 mm, the barrel of a metric system can seam micrometer is divided into half millimeter steps, or 0.5 mm. Only the 0 mm, 0.5 mm, and 10 mm lines on the barrel are numbered. In between each of the numbered lines are nine other lines that increase by 0.5 mm. Around the thimble that can be turned, there are fifty numbers from 0 to 49. Each mark means one hundredth of a millimeter.
The thimble has a number on every fifth graduation. Every full turn of the thimble is the same as 0.5 mm.
For measurements between 0 and 0.5 mm on a metric micrometer, the reading comes directly from the thimble. The number on the line of the thimble that is closest to the long line on the barrel is the reading. When the reading on the thimble is more than 0.5 mm, it is added to the reading on the barrel. If three lines past zero on the barrel were visible (but no numbers on the barrel were visible) and the long line on the barrel lined up with the 41st graduation on the thimble, the reading would be 1.91 mm. (0.5 + 0.5 + 0.5 +.41), as shown in Figure 32. This micrometer doesn’t have a vernier. The anvil end of any seam micrometer will have a projecting, pointed shaft. This can be used to figure out the depth of the countersink. But the countersink gauge of Figure 30 that was already talked about is much easier to read and is more accurate.
Every so often, the micrometer should be checked to make sure it is set to zero. Use a piece of paper, not something rough, to clean the anvil and spindle.
The normal amount of pressure should be used to bring these two surfaces together. Then, while holding the frame in one hand, put the wrench that came with the micrometer into the hole in the barrol sleeve and turn the barrol sleeve until the parallel line meets the zero line on the thimble.
The can seam micrometer can be used to measure how thick the seam is. The micrometer is put on top of the double seam so that the seam is between it and the spindle screw. The can seam micrometer should be held by the index finger and balanced directly over the seam. The tip of the micrometer shouldn’t be where you hold it. If you do that, the anvil won’t be able to fit the taper of the chuck wall, and you’ll get an incorrectly high reading. Figure 34 shows how to turn the thimble in a clockwise direction until the double seam fits snugly between the anvil and the spindle screw. It should fit snugly, but not too tightly. The reading is then done the way it was said to be done on pages 24 and 25. At least three measurements should be taken around the double seam, and the seam thickness should be written down as a range from the thinnest to the thickest point.
Figure 35 shows how the can searn micrometer can also be used to measure the length of the seam. The end of the micrometer is resting on the body of the can, so the anvil is at the cover hook radius. The thimble is turned in a clockwise direction until the length of the double seam fits snugly between the anvil and the thimble screw.
The seam length is found by reading the lines on the micrometer barrel and the thimble. “Evaluating the Double Scam” says that the length of the scam on sanitary cans should be about.120″ (3.05 mm.).
The seam length is measured at least three times around the seam to the nearest thousandth of an inch or hundredth of a millimeter. It should be written down as a range, from the least to the most.
A piece cut from the double seam is used to measure the overlap. The best tool for the job is a power-driven saw with a thin, sharp blade and fine teeth. Figure 36 shows one of these saws. With this saw, you lay the can on its side and make two cuts that are parallel to each other.
One blade of this two-bladed saw went through each seam. On the diameter of the can, only one of these cuts is made, and this is the cut that is used to measure the overlap. Tin snips or nippers are used to cut the piece out of the can. With the single-blade saw in Figure 37, the can is laid on its side and the first cut is made on the diameter of the can. So that the piece can be taken off, a second cut is made at a 45-degree angle to the lirsl and through it.
(A saw blade that is often used is 4 inches in diameter,.014 inches thick, and has about 25 teeth per inch.) At the thickest part of the cross over, you should cut an extra piece through the seam. Heavy solder and dangerously small overlaps are easy to find in this section, making it one of the most important places to look and measure during the whole seam examination.
The piece can then be put in the seam projector’s small vise or held up to its light source.
One blade of this two-bladed saw went through each seam. On the diameter of the can, only one of these cuts is made, and this is the cut that is used to measure the overlap. Tin snips or nippers are used to cut the piece out of the can. With the single-blade saw in Figure 37, the can is laid on its side and the first cut is made on the diameter of the can. So that the piece can be taken off, a second cut is made at a 45-degree angle to the lirsl and through it.
(A saw blade that is often used is 4 inches in diameter,.014 inches thick, and has about 25 teeth per inch.) At the thickest part of the cross over, you should cut an extra piece through the seam. Heavy solder and dangerously small overlaps are easy to find in this section, making it one of the most important places to look and measure during the whole seam examination.
The can seam micrometer is then used to measure the cover hook at least three points around its circumference that are all the same distance apart. The cover hook is held between the anvil and the thimble screw, with the anvil at the cut edge of the cover hook and the thimble screw at the radius of the cover hook. As shown in Figure 44, the cover hook should be parallel to the main axis of the micrometer so that the measurement isn’t messed up. To the nearest.001, the cover hook is measured “It is given as a range from minimum to maximum, or 0.01 mm.
Before wrinkle and juncture ratings are made, the cover hook should be cleaned with a solvent-soaked brush or cloth to get rid of any dirt, grease, pack, or compound. The ways these ratings were made are talked about in “Evaluating the Double Seam, “pages 10-22. A thickness micrometer like the one in Figure 45 is used to measure the thickness of the end and body plates. This one has anvil and thimble screw tips that are sharp.
UBIS : Compound is a type of adhesive sealant for metal packaging. Its main job is to keep the can and its lid from leaking.
Compound should also stop any outside contamination, which would make the packed product last longer.
Benefits and Importance of Sealants:
• To prevent void space and leakage on metal packaging seams
• To stop contamination
• To keep the air pressure inside the package steady
• To keep the shelf life longer
